Monday, April 23, 2012

Jersey Post Mortem

The jolly green jersey is finished. It fits pretty good except that I have a paunch and the dress form has a perfectly flat stomach. Come to think of it, I've never seen a dress form with a paunch. In David Coffin's book, Shirtmaking, he's a little more kind. He doesn't call it a paunch but a "bay window." Oh, I feel so much better.

I have several admissions. I've never really sewn with a spandex stretch like this before, especially in a knit with such a fine weave. And I've never done a zipper before. This brings me to the critical flaw of the jersey.

I totally misjudged the placement of the edges of the zipper with the cut of the knit fabric. The pattern instructions had me sew one side of the zipper and then the other, cautioning me to keep the edge of the fabric close to the edges of the zipper. I pinned it, looked at it, and it didn't seem to close correctly. At my peril, I decided to ignore the pattern instructions and sew where the fabric seemed to fall naturally. Who doesn't commit this odious crime from time to time? At the bottom of the zipper, the instructions called for a triangular cut very similar to how one cuts the slash of a shirt placket. Then one sews the bottom of the zipper cross wise and pulls the zipper through.

I didn't see how pronounced the folds were at the edges of the zipper until much later in the construction. I thought the folds would simply pull out. Alas, they did not. So to all, I will lie. Of course, I meant to do these folds. The folds catch just enough air, like a vent, to wick away perspiration. Kind of like tail fins on a car. They also add a little bit of style. Yes? No? Of maybe I could say that I thought my pecs were bigger than they actually are. The truth is that the extra fabric might accomodate the paunch. Well, it's something to work for. Bigger pecs and flatter stomach. At least Grant me that I can fib well?

A jersey like this costs $30 for a cheap one and $60 for a decent one. I think I dropped $6 for the fabric. I'll go for a ride in it this weekend and will let you know. From the little time I tried it on tonight, I felt the fabric was much smoother and more comfortable than any of the jerseys I already own. The pockets are much deeper too. I won't know for sure until after I've done my first ten miles and few hills.


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