Work-in-Progress Summer Short Sleeve

Last Summer a neighbor encouraged me to go with him to a house ‘clean out,’ which is a nice Maine way of saying an estate sale of a deceased person who didn’t have a lot of money but seemed to be a hoarder. The folks mistook the poor lady’s fabric stash as hoarding, but the ancient sewing machine and notions told a different story.  Along with a lot of lace trim, I bought 10 yards of a musty scented cotton yarn-dyed cotton plaid for $1, gently washed it, and added it to my own stash. Until a few days ago.  Using Vogue 2586 Bill Blass commercial pattern and varied DVDs from Taunton Press, I’ve started using the plaid.

 The new Bernina 740 has sewing precision that is amazing.  One of the holy grails of shirt collars is a point without bulk, crisp edges, and edge stitching that defies gravity.  I was stitching at 2mm from the edge, but chickened out at the point turn.. a couple more stitches would have tempted fate. I’ll always wonder, and nobody will look.  The crowd on 7th Avenue would pick it out right away, but in Maine I don’t think so. I’m determined to do flat felled side seams where I’d normally serge because no one sees the inside of a shirt. I see it, and I’m trying to make a comeback in my sewing.

The poor lady must have had the bolt for decades, just waiting for the right project.  Note to self: sew today because I might not be here for the right project. I hope she will be pleased when I’m done.

Double Weave Fabric

A few weeks ago, I visited Elliott Berman Textiles at 225 West 35th St 7th Floor.  The lovely Eugemia was on hand to help me select a fabric for a shirt.  The store is beautifully organized and the proprietor is a master of offering fine fabrics at very reasonable prices.  It's best to avoid shopping for a fabric by the name of the designer.  Just go with what you see as a beautiful work of art to the touch and visual impact.  I picked out a most amazing roll of fabric that Eugenmia told me had come from France.  It was plaid on one side and chex on the other.

I'd never seen anything like it before.. a fabric with two right sides!  I bought enough and then some to make a long sleeve shirt.  Eugemia tried to explain that this fabric was a double weave, but I was so focused on the fabric itself I didn't hear her.  This is a man thing. 

Tonight I started cutting the fabric to make a shirt and noticed the fabric was separating at the edges. Amazingly, it is actually two ultra thin sheets intricately woven together. 

 I pulled on the fabric sheets, but found a single warp strand from each was woven into the weft of the other cloth sheet.  The strands are in a color which complements both sheets at the same place in the weave.  I plan to mix my pieces to take advantage.  The front, back and sleeves will be plaid.  The cuffs, pocket, collar and collar stand will be chex. 

Status on the skirt.. I made a muslin and it fit my lady friend well enough to make it again out of fashion fabric. Matching a print between the yoke and the large skirt panels would have driven me crazy, so I found some solid colors drawn from the print's flowers. 

And a little news.. I bought a Juki TL2010Q sewing machine  It's designed primarily for quilting, but I wanted a beautiful straight stitch like the vintage Singers can deliver so after a long search this one seems the best pick.  Tomorrow I'm setting it up and will sew most of the plaid/chex shirt on it. 

G'night!