Thursday, January 24, 2013

Juki TL2010Q v. French Double Weave

I suppose it wasn't the smartest thing in the world to do, but I decided to use my new Juki 2010Q straight stitcher to make a shirt of the double weave fabric I'd bought from Berman Textiles.  New machine + New fabric = Challenge^2.

After I washed the fabric, I was immediately struck by how light and fluffy it had become.  The slightest touch would send the weave in wild directions.  I use a rotary cutter, so I was also surprised when the ends of freshly cut fabric exploded into frays.  Of course, the cut crossed the weave and the injured warp threads danced around like live electric lines.

I felt like I was trying to sew airy cotton balls together, but I suspect there is a nylon fiber in the fabric.  It simply won't hold a crease and found it wandering away like spandex.  The Juki performed well.  The feed dog and presser foot seemed to have a firm stable command of the fabric.  It is a wonderful basting machine.  The 6mm stitch is very much like my 1970s Singer touchmatic.  I don't think I would have been able to sew this fabric as well with my Pfaff zig-zag stitcher.  I'm positive the larger hole in the feed dog plate would have created evil things to happen with this fabric.


Last night I added the cuff plackets.  No matter how much ironing I did, the fabric would unfurl itself as I stitched.  I thought I'd caught all the edges, but this morning I see I didn't. During the night the fabric spread itself out flat.  Hand stitching will fix this. [sigh]

Off to work!

5 comments:

  1. Hi, If I may make a suggestion for this fabric unfurling itself. When ironing before sewing use some starch, it should stiffen it up some and make it easier to work with. The shirt is looking great by the way.

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    1. I was afraid the starch would foul my needle, but I may switch to a needle I don't care about and try your suggestion.

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  2. Tom, despite your challenges, it's looking gorgeous. I remember that fabric from when I was at Elliot Berman a few months ago: amazing stuff.

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    1. I have a PDF to send you on making hats (circa 1986), but lost your email. tmarshall215 at gmail

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  3. Jealous of that Juki 2010Q! That's a machine I would definitely love to try out some day (though there's little chance of it, due to a lack of local dealers). Sounds like a great choice for this project. Looking forward to hearing more about it as you get acquainted.

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