With the Fall season plays in the rear view window, I've started another shirt. I had in mind to make something that is a hybrid between a dress and a casual shirt. Always a recipe for disaster.
This is a work in progress that I hope to finish up over the weekend.
Men's shirts with a stand and a point collar have unwritten rules about the gap between the folds of the collar and the center button. Normally, there's just enough space, 3/4", for the knot of a tie. The collar point spread can be narrow or wide, and the length of the collar can be anything from a short stub to a long 3 1/2". Men's shirt styles have varied on this simple combination for decades. I wondered what it might look like to assume that a long tie would never be worn with the shirt, so I decided to experiment with a very wide 2 1/2" gap and a collar point that would appropriately touch the the shirt front. The collar would be open and loose. I guess it's a look that is like wearing a baseball cap backwards, or the feel of boxer shorts instead of briefs. Gals might not get this, but the guys would. I'd love to hear your thoughts. This shirt is all white, but if I do this again, I will use either a print or a contrasting color color stand.
I will use contrasting color buttons, teal or blue as I used a very light teal So Fine! #50 thread and a 80/12 Topstitch Organ needle that I bought from Superior Threads. I am pleased with both the thread and the needle, which is on my Pfaff 2046. Superior does have a "Try Me Special" where they pick the color you get; I bought the maximum of five at $3.00. Beware of the recommended topstitch needle size of 100/16 if you order both the needles and the thread together. The needle is really is supposed to be a 80/12. Off topic I suppose, but since I've wandered away from my collar.... my mom gave me a catalog from WAWAK Sewing Supplies. If you want to find those impossible notions, tools, zippers, tapes, do check them out. I've been reading the catalog and feel like on every page I want to shout "Eureka! It does exist!!"
Back to this shirt. It's 100% cotton, washed but not ironed until I'm finished making the shirt. I cheated and serged the seams then folded them over to make a faux flat felled seam. I intend to do a serged rolled hem on the bottom instead of a sewn rolled hem. Maybe I'll cook up a different tie to match this shirt. Orsen Wells preferred broad bow ties in his later years. It's a thought.
Slowly but surely, I'm drifting over to the dark side with my Elna serger. My next posting will be about my visit to the Merrow Company in Fall River, MA where they make commercial sewing machines. I'll also introduce you to "Maria," my latest flea market sewing machine acquisition.