Saturday, October 1, 2011

V5789 is Finished

Today I wrapped up V5789 by finishing the side and sleeve seams, the rolled hem along the bottom, the sleeve hems, buttonholes, and buttons.

I decided to finish the side seams as faux felled seams by serging the seams, ironing the finished seam towed the body, anb then sewing through the serged seam about 3/8" from the seam. I did find color matched buttons that were interesting in my stash of buttons.

There were many new lessons for me in this shirt. Up to this pattern, I've always provided ease into the back by pleats or gathers. This pattern used shaped pieces and french seams. The back appears to be one flat piece, but it's actually curved so that ease is built into the back.

The armscye holes are smaller than most of my shirts. The only exception is a 1970s Bill Blass design I'd done last year. Men must have been smaller then. If I wear no undershirt, the shirt itself is very comfortable and form fitting. Too bad I've got the bay window belly going for me. 5-10 lbs less and the shirt would fit great.

New things I tried include: using David Coffin's technique for construction of the collar band, cutting the right front with a curve along the seam that meets to yoke to fit the shirt to my sloping shoulder, and ironing the sleeve hems with a sleeve pressing board before sewing the hem. I think the fold of fabric is gone from the right front where my should normally slumps and the collar fits very comfortably without pulling the shoulders up around my ears.

On to my next shirt! G'night.

1 comment:

  1. I love the bow tie, and love the shirts that you've made. Tried to reply, but couldn't get through. You do great work.